SWAT Magazine - Free download as PDF File .pdf), Text File .txt) or read online for free. SWAT Magazine September, Multi-Purpose AR: Ruger AR MPR. Do we really need another AR-type rifle? Of course the answer is, absolutely yes! Different variations of America's Rifle. What's got more pop than a fireworks display? The July issue of S.W.A.T. does, because it delivers the boom with reviews of Mossberg's 14″ Shockwave

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Download S.W.A.T. - June magazine for free from ebookbiz. To download click on the following link. Corded grip literally springs into hand. Length of. RazorSword creates tactical advantage. Copyrighted Material: Reprinted by Permission of SWAT Magazine. computerescue.info S.W.A.T.» OCTOBER The offerings run from high- end precision rifles to bottom of the barrel (no pun intended) guns that.

Probably as the result of these issues in the late s, a myth of grand proportions has swelled up concerning the care and cleaning of the AR platform.

This myth specifies that the AR must be kept spotlessly clean, and that it takes an hour if not more of steady cleaning for the rifle to be once more useful.

Indeed, because this rifle allegedly dirties where it feeds, it must be cleaned regularly and with great care if you are to use it. Also, a few meager grains of sand will cause it to stop running. The highlight for many errornet pundits comes when then rally around a female soldier whose convoy was ambushed during Operation Iraqi Freedom. Reports concerning this incident state that there were weapons malfunctions to be sure. However, a sergeant in that convoy stated that the weapons were cleaned daily and were clean when they left that morning.

The M16A2 wielded very efficiently by a soldier who killed six of the enemies with it did malfunction-because of a faulty magazine and a broken extractor. This is a service-life issue with the rifle, not a design flaw. While leadership and depot level maintenance might have prevented something like this, the proper steps were not taken at a level above the soldier in the field. An M also failed, but that may have been due to lack of training with the weapon. And what of the celebrated centerpiece of this fight?

She may have been knocked unconscious when her vehicle crashed at the beginning of the action-but this is casually brushed aside in the bubble gum gun forums.

The serviceability of her weapon is therefore moot. It is not unique to the AR platform. Cleaning is a hot-button topic, and a great many especially AR detractors really believe that the AR has to be kept meticulously clean to function. While having a clean gun is never bad, neither do you have to put up with the white glove nonsense.

My cleaning regimen may be different from conventional protocol, but it works and has stood the test of time. I normally spend no more than ten minutes doing a field cleaning, and oftentimes less than that. If it takes you an hour, you are wasting time on something or you are doing something wrong.

This is the cleaning protocol that I use.

Clean the bolt carrier assembly by removing carbon from the bolt carrier yeah, that chrome-lined thing where the bolt goes in and the bottom of the bolt carrier itself. You can use a wet pipe cleaner to clean the inside of the bolt carrier key, but I rarely do.

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Do not put anything inside of the gas tube-it is unnecessary, and you will only stick debris in there that can do no good. Use your toothbrush and a rag to clean the bolt, specifically the bolt lugs.

No matter how you clean it, it will just reappear the next time you shoot it. I had an armorer once tell me that the carbon promoted corrosion. That may well be if the gun is never shot, but I have yet to see a working bolt corrode away.

Attach the chamber brush to your cleaning rod and scrub out the chamber. I generally use a worn brush, wrap a wet patch around it and insert it in the chamber.


Spin it a few times and replace it with a fresh brush and patch. Spin that and then dry the chamber out. Clean out the locking lugs with cotton swabs.

Spray some Slip into the upper receiver and the charging handle. Your toothbrush and cotton swabs work well here. Take a few dry patches and clean the barrel. If I felt that the bore was heavily fouled, I ran several wet patches through it, and if I absolutely felt the need for a brush, it was nylon, not copper. Never ever use a stainless steel brush in your barrel. Understand that this is for a carbine, which by virtue of its definition is a short-barreled rifle.

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The 5. Bothering with inconsequential increments may not be useful under these circumstances.

However, if you have an SPR type, by all means give the care to that barrel that it deserves, but that care may be wasted on a Before reassembling, check your bolt rings for serviceability. Insert the bolt into the bolt carrier, and turn it upside down preferably over something soft. If the bolt falls out on its own, you need to change the gas rings. If not, you are good to go.

The Colt Armorer instructors state emphatically that the gun will run with only one good ring, and I have done exactly that. We have been teaching that misaligning the gas rings is a waste of time for about ten years or so. I have seen nothing that leads me to believe differently. One of the very prominent AR myths is that the gun runs better dry.

It is a myth. The AR series runs significantly better wet than dry, but there are those who approach this with such great trepidation that they steadfastly refuse to use only a tiny bit of lube on their carbines, causing them to cease functioning after a very short while. Hundreds of e-net posts speak of using little lube on the carbines, believing that too much lube is the cause of all problems.

A friend, a retired Marine MSgt and a prolific Class 3 collector, looks at lube like it was two-day old cat urine, and is absolutely phobic about putting anything more than a drop or two on any gun. Our experience is that, after poor magazines and operator-induced malfunctions, dry guns are a major cause of stoppages.

We see this in every class we have ever attended or taught, and we are satisfied that our observations regarding lubrication are correct. Consider that your carbine is a machine, and like an internal combustion engine, it requires lubrication to make it function. There are certain wear points in the gun that need attention, and failure to do so can cause a stoppage.

A good rule of thumb is to look for shiny marks, which indicate metal-to-metal contact. If it shines, get it wet. Remove the bolt from the bolt carrier.

Turn the bolt carrier over and observe the shiny area on the bottom. This is a wear point. The slot that the bolt cam pin rides in is another wear point, as is the chromed hole in the bolt carrier that the bolt rides in.

Anything between you and your attacker trash cans, vehicles, furniture, etc. I suggest you draw your weapon as soon as the danger clearly exists.

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There is no point in waiting until the last possible second to play "Quick-Draw McGraw" if you recognize the threat early on. Also, the sight of your "Equalizer" may be sufficient to terminate the action then and there.

The purpose of the pistol is to stop fights, and whether it does so by dropping a thug in his tracks, or by causing him to turn tail and run, your goal is accomplished, is it not? At this point it might be advisable to issue a verbal challenge such as, "Stop"', "Don't move", or "Drop your weapon!

If all goes according to plan, the odds are that by now you will no longer have a problem, your attacker having remembered he had a more pressing engagement elsewhere.


But, as we all know, things seldom go according to plan and the ideal circumstances previously described are probably not the norm. For example, if this goon tries to throw his knife or other weapon at you, what do you do then? Realistically, knife-throwing is something of a gallery trick requiring specially balanced knives and a pre-measured distance to the target.

Suffice it to say, however, that if your attacker is within effective throwing range he will almost surely have encroached into your Danger Zone.

This throwing business does create something of a timing problem, for, if you fire after he has thrown his weapon, you may have difficulty convincing a jury that you fired in self-defense since technically you were not in jeopardy if your former attacker is no longer in possession of a deadly weapon.

Something to consider, and just one more reason to use cover if it is available and time permits. Sometime, of course, despite your best efforts, you could find you are suddenly, at close quarters, the intended victim of some lunatic slasher.

If you are an expert in one of the many martial arts, you may opt to go at it hand-to-hand, and if you are in this category you do not need advice from me on how to do it.

So, we'll get back to the use of the handgun for solving the problem.

What it all comes down to now is your ability to smoothly and quickly draw your pistol and hit your adversary, and do it all reflexively.

And the only way to develop these reflexes is through consistent, repetitive practice, practice, practice. Practice so the right move comes automatically.

One thing you should practice, with this kind of encounter in mind, is the step-back technique in which you take a long step to the rear as you draw. This puts another three to four feet between you and your attacker, which may be just enough to make the difference.

Remember, the greater your skill with your weapon, the smaller your Danger Zone will be, but only if that skill is coupled with good mental conditioning, tactical planning and alertness, because no amount of skill will do you any good unless you know that you're in trouble.

Skill at arms and proper mental attitude.The reasons are obvious. November The November issue of S. Both are very articulate and were decidedly willing to do whatever it www. The school. Be Prepared.

MARTHA from Miramar
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