Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion Author: Alan Flusser. downloads Views MB Size Report. DOWNLOAD PDF. Up until the late eighteenth century, it was often the man who dressed more democracy and the glorification of the common man, clothing became less ornate . Dressing the Man Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion - Ebook download as PDF File .pdf), Text File .txt) Alan FLusser's name is synonymouswi th taste.
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The proportions of today"s average suit have recovered from the hip-hugging jeans mentality of the sixties and the tight.
Not only does the waist then appear smal ler, but by raising the trousers' fuiJ ness, it can better filJ up the jacket's bottom opening, thereby lengthening the overall figure. The choice of a dress shirt should be guided first and foremost by the appropriateness of its coll.
Think 0J the face as cr pi cture ;;md t he collar as its lran: A small pi cture requires a Like-. CGn- Yerscly. As the cwerage notch lapel ranges. Yill l m1i1uJil. To enha11ee its staying povver, adimple or inverted pleat shoul.
Jnstead of looking crisp and distinguished. J Necktie wid'th should relate to lapel width. The Last American politician to be considered St I ish. President John F. Although most men arc intimidated by st1ch vcsdgial raiment.
Bur in terms of proportion. To effect a permanently smart aesthetic below one's knee.
Best Books on Mens Clothing?
Once again, it is the body rather than fashion that should rake the lead- the general rule of thumb being that the trouser bottom shoul. Narrow trouser bot- toms make large feet loom even larger. This symmetry in scale between trouser bottom and shoe remains an immutable linchpin of permanent fash- ion.
Just like the slipper-type evening shoe vvorn under cufBess formal dress trousers. The shoe's leaner line is enhanced by its beveled waist.
For n1ore on shoes, please see chapter 1 o. There are m. Back in the t1uxties. America's own guru of gesm. Dressing for your body type is a subject pep- pered with misguided prescriptions and arcane rules. For example, heavy men are advised to avo.
Close- fitting clothes reveal more than rhey con- ceal. In general. To accornplish this. If too short. Along with a shorter coat. The slightly higher shm.
Jdcr give the added illusion of elevating the torso while elongat- ing the leg line. Tllis is not to recomrnend squaring the shoulder. Peaked lapels with their upsv. Jacket sleeves should finish to show a half ir1ch of shirt cuFf: The coat' sleeve should taper down to the wrist bone. Extra like the change pocket, tend to bulk up and horten lines. Flap pockets are preferable to the patch design. Like irs front. Viewed from the ide, the nonvented back cnn lend the corpulent hip a trimmer line; however.
When tailored to lie tlat. The man with a prominent mjddle needs full trousers that hang straight from the waist. By sitting higher on the w:: The reverse-pleat style facing the pocket may be more flattering for this f igure, because they tend to lie flatter than the forward- pleated model facing tbe fl y.
Although conventional guidance advises against cuffs due to their horizontal elfect. In the matter of m: Colors should remai n in the medium- to dark register, because lighter colors tend make a stout physique appear larger.
The n1ission. One color from top to bottom. Smooth fabrics such as fine worsteds mit1imize t hickness. The n1ajor difference betwee11 the short, stout body and the short.
In order to con- struct thi , lightl y hourglass shaping. Lll the upper trouser. The double- breasted model with lapels rotl ed below the waist would also serve to elongate this body type. The height-challenged man, whether wide or narrow. Hovvever, the thin man can wear lighter colors to better advan- tage than his corpul ent confrere. As this guy has plenty of ve rtica1Unes. His suit jacket should affect an easy-fittiJ1g deme:: Tl1e rule of thumb on jacket length: The only reason for any extra padding or thickness would be to build them out a little..
Itl1ough slightly augmented in scale. As for jacket model, this man can wear them all. Double-breasteds are helpful to the cause. Another 'Option wouJd be the si ngle- breasted. Cooper's illustrated earli er sec page Details like the patch and llap pocket. Here's one ca e where a belt's horizontal personality could come in interrupting the occupants Ye rtica1 roulade.
Trousers should be long in the rise and tai Gene rously cut thighs need to taper gently down to 1 3; 4 - i nch cull-;. And should thi. If stripes:: The hori - zont: High-profile Gary Cooper cnlisr. Jacket detailing should be kept at a minimum to accentuate the vertical line. The suit trouser for the athletic bLLild should be cut as full around the hip and t high as possible. Its Full ness worlc to fi ll up t he jacket bottom's large cavir;. TrolL"ers , hould taper down ro a cuffed bottom that rests on the shoe with some break puJI.
Trying to emphasize the up- and-dovm while playing down breadth. Assun1ing a broad tace and thick neck. Whi le th is bbck- and-white shot projects an LLnmi s- takable aura of elegance. Once inside the fitting mom, surrounded by mirrors. Years ago.
No sense in haYing a breast- pocket billfold produce a bulge whe11 che suit G be altered to bide it. It is also a good idea to wear or bring along a representative shirtvvith the correct sleeve length and collar height to help in t he f itting process.
If a three- thousand- doiJar suit's collar bounce. The jacket collar that creeps up or stands away From your neck is tbe fault of t he tailor. After slipping on the and jacket. This part or the fitting procedure can GlLLSe all kinds of problems. For starters.
Tr there arc tension lines pulling acros! The jacket collar at tbe back should ahvays be at such a. This vvay the jacket not onfy looks best but hangs correctly. The waist should be slightly suppressed.
You cu1 teU if the fit is roo tight by looki ng for X-shaped lines forming on either side of the fastened waist button. IF too pro11ounced. The tailor can usually adjust the waist to your l. Back vents should hnng in a straight line perpendicular to t he Roor.
The jacket. As for the correct lengd1. T CUFF. The adjustable rear belt gives shape to the vest's waist I i ne and discourages the vest From riding up the torso during the course of wear. The vest must be long enough to cover t he trousers' -vvaistband, stopping in front before its points extend below the hipbone. They raise the trousers' wa. Vests and belts should choose different dance partners. A strip of leather encircling the stomach adds more bulk to an already layered waistline.
Top-quality have slits on either l-id e. More- over. Like rhe jacket' arm- hole. IJ opc11 whe11 standing. Th cl1cm on in the standing. Today rherc arc several schools of Lhought on the length of a trouser.
Ln the Stares. In this case. IJ cuffed. Another approach is that of the Europeans or. Signor Luciano Barbera. Gills ir the "mid-Atlantic solution. Although he doesn't want to sec your socks. Regardkss of the c. On the front.
The hi: Patterned artirc al: Throughout his life. T he [ngJish spent considerable time on their countr estates. Hosts and guests were regu- lady ki rted our in local I fighland fare of tarrans. Howe' cr. Prince Charles carries on the royal pattern traditio The fi rst step roward pattern- mixing prmvcs is lea rning how to mate two like- patterned garments.
Cary Grant ensures the visual compatibilit: Ever the style setter and cyc. Although the overal l ensen: Astaire achieves compatability with -two stripes of varying spacing. DoN'T 1nate two two stripes that are similar i11 size. Agnd I i trbol'e right. I r th assemblage to Lhe right cloe-;n'r make you squint.
DoN'T wear t11'o checks t! Two si ilar patterns necessitate' arri ng ro avoid oppos ition: A dominant- patterned dn: Jt's plaid.
Like guidelines. PicKing two small Keep the sc rles equal to harmo11i. Jm the others. Following the same tra. Obsene l rronc Power's. By main- taining a consi: Even the border of the pocket handkerchief reAccts the bolder stature of this multi patterned rown outfit.
Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion
Tyrone Power wearing three d rent patterns. Using t: In this example. Ditto For the check-on-check class ic bdow.
The dress shirt's smaller check is app. Of al l neckties, the opcn-grouncllarge-spaccd motif affords the greatest possibi li ties for textural har- mony.
Multiple-patterned ensembles often require at least one larger-scaled design for proper balance. Correct balance- large check, small check, large stripe. Brandishing three plaids or three stripes ral ls very much withjn the parameters of traditional elegance; however. Once agajn. Follow- ing the technique for dea1ingwirh two like patterns. Likewise, Prince Charles cente1 jumbles around three plaids with a display of aristocratic aplomb.
The same basic geometry appli es to succcs -fu lly choreo- graphing three stripes bottom. Graduating checks fi'om shirt outward.
Prince Charles in three checks. Graduating stl"ipes fi'om shirt outward. They relish t he challenge of a fine matcb. Is t hi. Dressing at this rarefied altintde pjvots on something of a paradox; the more imagination and taste one puts in to his appearance, the mQre sub de rhc rcsuJts should be.
Here he mantled in motif- four oC them. Shall we our nn limb and spcnd:. Tyrone Power in fou. Fred Mtalre donnfngfour 6ua.
The Duke ltwd on planet "pattern. Luciano Barbera as! Although the community congcnjtally disposed t G se: Ll codes. U1 of snccess than their cars. T he style-conscious man has graduated riom d1e h. And bespoke rai. T nstcad of shedding value. Even the Cucci-Prada colony portrays jts po. In [ngland. In France. Each generic suit shape could be identified by its national custom- tai loring tradition, which fil tered down into a vari ety of rcady-ro-vvear suit styles, several of which emerged over the long term robe almo t i1iimune to the vagaries of fashion..
The first archetype silhouette w'as the so-call ed Eng! The Briti h style modeled itself along the lines of them il i tary uniform as exemplified by the long- fitting. Adhering closely to the body. Aap pockets. The American suit makers were the first to learn t hat the less there was trt c. The third basic tailored expression became the Continental or l Conti- nental style revolved around Italian and, to a lesser extent.
French fashion. Cut close through the chest and hips. The European's wedgclike torso and lean-fitting trousers turned many a young male into a walking phaJ I ic symbol.
The last or fourth t 'pe of suit style was a blend of merican and English. Brooks Brothers and avi le Row. Long the st Introduced ro the Gotham gent in the middle sixties by: Vladison Avenue retailer Paul Feantring higher armholes and a smaller chest ,;vith dart'ed fronts for a more shaped waist. Whether Americanized by a center vent or anglicized with side vents. For years. To be de cribed as" Italian" in one's sartorial procliviti es was to suggest t hat a man preferred his clothes fitted and worn with a certain aair.
Today such references h: The last thirty yea rs ofgloba'l fashion have transcended national b One would be equally hard-pressed to find the authentic sack suit for sale in lvlanhartan. The former European fig, with its tight fit and wedge shoulder. Italy's lead- ing fashion designers. England's avile Row tailors. France's top retailers. This is not to suggest that men's uits have become so homogeneous in cur or detailing as to be indistinguishable from one another. GJry Cooper demMzstrates the classic urroniug of a three-button suit with its center button closed.
Cocteau shows the larger "V" openitzg of the two-button suit. Early single-breasted suits were usually three- button.
FolLovving the Lines of its t'.. As the curve prevented the bottom button from fasteni. Compared "vith the openness of Mr. Its two upper buttons aLo form a vertical line in front, promoting a more up-and-down dynamic, thought to add length to a man's torso.
Ultimately eclipsing the three-button in popularity. This classic dark worsted doesn't seem tO have inhibited Jean Cocteau from The three-button suit with: Throughout the interwar period. The acceptance of the single-breast ed dinne r jacket with peaked lapels i1: J the late t wenti es ultimately spill ed over into daywear. By rigging a single-breasted jacket wit h a double- breasted tever, this lapel treatment vi rtJ-tally neutralized the double-breasted edge in formality This opt1on offered particular relief in the sun1Jner months.
Rarely found on ready- to-wear racks. Lome Country's better-upholstered public servants. Adolphe Mtnjotdtt a natty, classic double-breasted suit.
The Duke cifKerzt in the "v '' [ 1' i. One model in particLJar spi r- il. Pri ncc George. S gcncr;1ll ' Cl'edited with mtmduction in the late twenties. Lkcausc it: Not did the Kent seduce the superbl its sty! The DB's pt1inted. As a rc-,ult rlk' fifties" irnessed the populnr decline or the DB.
Although its comes goes. Side pockets line up with the bottom bttttoH on the coat'sji-ont. Patch pockets are considered the nwst CL1Stuz! This is why top- pedigreed tuxedo jackets feature jetted rmhcr than Happed pockets. Lince patch pockets add anOLher layer to the j;.
Kkefs Slllfacc. As a rule of thumb. Casl1 pocket. Rarel y fou11d o n non- l ritish ready- mades. Vith its sporty roots. Kking- "r: A single slit in the coat's back permi t- red its tails to fall naturall y on eit her side ofrhe horse. As the male suit jacket must be long enough to cover the buttocks. There are three choices in jacket venting: English tailors ruled men's seams. The long single back vent adorns most modern ridingjackets.
The ventless back bunches up if forced to accommodate a hand in search of a pocket. The nonvcntcd jacket hugs the hip. Advocates choose to ignore such inconven- iencc. The Center Vettt The center-vent ed back. Jnitially designed for horseback. The side 11e11t permits access to trouser pockets whfle co11eri11g the buttocks. As the least expensh e vent to manufacture ;;md. The Italian cognoscenti never succttmbed to its middl ebrow favor, and Savile Row tai lots avoided it like the sanGria!
As for function. And when one accesses a trouser pocket, the double vent's back Aap permits smooth entry while conceal- ulg the buttocks.
Frequently bought together
Side vents le8d t he observer 's eye up either side of the coat's back, sublimin,, [l y imbuing t he wec-ll'er with an illusion or greater height. The side vent's height constitutes another of minute details that rdlect a man's personal taste.
If the pocket is jetted. Side vents cur above the height of a pocket Aap tend to mm e about. These cus- rums: Jacket-button logic has historical ly operated as if it were a Glbalistic language No l nC knows for sure why four buttons on a suit jacket's c; lccve conver superior sartorial breeding.
And bec:: Note Captain Eden's cuf burtons. The Wclisrcoat is teclu1ically the most challengi ng garment to construct sarisfacroril.
It was not only W ;l. The double- breasted suit was the first to di spense vvith its customary "ai. In the s. The addition of rhe right "odd" w:: Foll owing suit.
Randolph Scott. Although plain-fran t trousers have. Objects placed in a front pants pocket are beuer concealed within the pleated trousers' liotlt.
Perhaps the single largest beneficiary of recent textile and manufacturing advances is the three-season suit, the wm-k- horse of the male suit wardrobe. Never before has suit provided him with such comfort along with a sense. Advanced textile technology has enabled the top Italian and British mills to fabricate worsted wools that look and hang like cloths.
The orthodox Yiew held that suits bould be in neat patterns and quiet tones. Blue and gray5 ''ere considered the business basics they facllitated the transition From work to after-work activity. In the fall. Let's focus on rho e classic suitings that should form the backbone of the well -dressed m: Tn the case of the young man.
Such fasJ1 ion -Auidity makes the char- coal two- piece the blazer of male suits. Ralph Laurens birds-eye gray dress suit: Coming into own as dartime wear for the man who needed a bridge between the in formal and formal.
Recommended fm tovvn wear with a bowler hat. The quintessential power suit color. Ult hem of navy suit. Ronald Colema11 in early lounge coat formality. The stylish Ralph Laure11 in striped repose. At one ti me or another in rhc thirties.
Although its had ro be positioned perfectly for maxi - mum effect, rhis pattem's innate appeal derived fro m irs vertical line. Elongating any physique. They can be i 11 single. Lines can be faint or bold. The striped jacket and matching trow: For the sartorial romantic. AJthougb the glen plaid could rlattQr almost any physique. Rarely found hanging aYerage retail climes. Longer in length than width, its upright rectangular formation subtl y elongates. The windowpane's box setti ng varied pattern mixes DruisSH!
Yen less margin for error in matchiJl g. Soft rather than: Owing to advanced texti le technology Englar: Churd1tll once impugned it as the nit: Brown's reprieve from suiting obl ivion came during the tenure of Ronald Reagan. As a result. Ray Mifla11d sll'athed i11 silky gabardine. Sir Anthon ' [den i11 wher1 a soupron qfsltwt was viewed as a touch of class rather than crass. Since its introduction in the thirries. Cosrlr tO weaYe.
The fine cotton gnb:: Fabrics became more buoran t. Kc- i merest picture. The following arc classic suit- ing-. This rLun pled- looking cotton li1bric first became: Tbdar in medium blue. Sec page ro;;. One of the few sLunmcr suits capable of holding irs crisp good looks has always been the vvool mohair suit.
From its well -bred bcginn i11gs. Todar only one mdl in ltal weaves thi Tl1e classic shades arc cream. Pri11ce Charles. ET B;tllk in the Nineties when eil. Englisb and Scottish rwedds cheviots C: The era offlam- ing youth was unfolding, never before the American man more inclined to try sontethi11g nevv and diffe.
The postwar obsession with sports and outdoor activities encouraged fashion experimenta- ti on. The New York ekgance of the period meant looking wel l h1rned out but comfortable. From thjs tin1c forward, the virtue of comfort vvould be an evolving constant of men's In a few short 'ears. Forty years later. The later Norft lk jacket of 19 r8 ight be caUcd the first A mei-ican sport jacl. London was nto.
The rough. Scottish and lri sh n veeds. PaJm Beach became the founta. York socialite ilton I! Here arefour Esquire- Apparel Arts photos take11 in February within a Jew days' time showing how correct clothes ha. Rene Lacoste sporting the first designer logo.
Accompanied by his wife and a friend a suit coat , Antho11y Drexel Biddle t'n a. Dubbed Le Crocodile br the spa ns press for his tenacity on the court.
Anthony Drexel Biddle. Tbe hue Douglas Fairbanks Jr. Although Biddle's male confrere relic! Biddle brooks no such backsliding. Now Found in most better urbrtn wardrobes. Henr11 Fonda i11 action-back tweed and sport-detailed flannels.
Clatk Gal? In r The most popular fanq - back jacket of the. I i nen. Wc resoh-ed tbc challe nge of how ro accommo date t he bul k of pocket square and pipe. By d1c mid- rhi rries. Straiglll from the borse's mouth. The thirties also vVitnesscd the adoption or mili tary apparel identified 'vvit h r hc Comonwcalth's coloni es in As i: The firs t of these was the mid- length inspi red by the SUCl' uniform o the Eng! Fastened b a row of buttons. Clark Gable with pipe and pockets to go.
Brooks Brothers classic haddngjacket. The stripe sport coat as favored by Princetonian. In the late Forties. About the same time.
From the seventies onw: The overwhelming acceptance oftl1e blazer marked the decline of the fancy-back jacket,: These sport jackets were custnmaril ' decorated with stripes in rhc club's colors. H" Edwardian sight. A few English lads soak up America's swing mt. Both the Cambridge a11d O:: A roundup cifsame of Atnericas early bla.
Being cla. Whether tn a solid color and piped at the edges or in bold regatta stripes. By the thjrties, tl1e bh12er began to be seen in different soLi d colors. The stand,ud shade of dark b: The blazer ranks in cL-essiness som. As the double- breasted bl azer projects a sl i. The mosr rraditional blazer bqtton is brass or gi lt vari ety. As to the idea] nmnber of buttons fc. The classic double-breasted blazer with flap pockets i. Han nels or jeans. Prince Charles practices his Napoleonic pose in a.
However, in Amer1can coUege. With pleated v. Although their popularity went into decline the foUm-ving year. Here's the soon-: As the t hirties began. This development resulted in Jnany young men revert ing ro odd trousers For casual wear because. Along vvith tweed. It was first used in the nineteenth century strictly for underwear. Gray ult imately loos- ened white's srranglehold on the upper-class weekend regiment, because it looked more appro- priate in winter than white.
As a result, it -vvas not long before rhe gray -flannel pant Found its pri n- cipal role a the companion for any type of sport coat. Os French menswear maga- zine's depiction of this "trouser of trousers''' vin: Rang- ing in tcx ru rc fro rwccd to cor- duroy. AI though the blue bb1. No doLLbt. This is one of those rimes where the obvious is nut:: The Duke of'Vi11dsor nursing his pipe attd baby cords. The fir. Because tan produces sl igh rlr mot-e contrast t han grar under t he average sport coar.
Various shades of cordLLroy or classic olive drab chinos follmY next on the dress- do" n meter. The silk: Ln t he earl y thirties, Glenurqubart pb1id. When wor: VeD with t he blue blazer. Al'ready familiar with t he ribbed hardi - ness of Bedford cord and cavalry tvvi ll i11 the sad- dle, t he paddock set cha. Details worthy of note a.
Chino cotton trousers in olive drab became d1e new uniform. By the mid-fifties. The plain-f ront model maintained a dominant position throughout the next several decades. I ronicaUy, the century's last two decades witnessed the remrn of the t: As the new millennium picks up pace.
The modcrtlists' slack "de leek'' reflects their preference for pared- down. For t he fashion savvy. Trained as an engineer. The saw- edge straw hat and the whangee cane add a touch of seasonable light-heartedness. The Slach- the first self-supporting beltless trottser construct a sport trouser and came up with the idea of a "comfort- iJ1- action slack.
In memory oF his he named his creation Oaks, an acronym combi 11 i 11g "Dad" and "slacks. Then, on either. The sci F-bclt design remm ed the bother of having ro pack a separate waist rigging. Apdy tenned the "T-Iollyvvood. Jvlodeled here by "OJ' Blue Eyes. One v: Frank Sinat;ra st. Leslie Howa-rd sp01'ting his se!
Glll tr;;tdilion begins in VJS apparent! By the early se,rcntics. This is a shame. The tattersall waistcoat em semble. As recentlr as the late s. L' The modern dress shin's shape developed dnri11g Vkto6an tim. In Uho. Vas the wiFe of a h. Vexed by the daily drudgery of laundering. At first, Mr. Almost overnight.
Troy abounded vvith shops cl amoring to tt. American sh iiT-makinggiants such as Clueu Peabody and Phillips Van Heusen fi rst began as separate-collat' manufucntrers in the Tro area. Septtrate collars rose to the pinnacle of t'"a. As sportswear came i mo being during rhe second halF ofthe n century. By the By the early s. Advocates of the stiff tollar regarded it as the key- stone of classical male cleg;Jncc, the last b2stion against slovenliness.
U L A youthful Anthon ,. Eden preceding page dons a dress shiJ'twith a stiff. The knot's positioning tlp, into. Even todar. The triangular sector formed belm' the chin by the "V.. First of all. The choice of a dress! Ghoosi ng t he appropriate shi rt collar requires a bit of experimentation and a li ttle common sense. A pic- ture requjres a compar: Just as large t;;lblctops beg for ample pedestals. Founder qf'Black enterprise magazine, Earl Gnives employs a long poirtted full-scale collar to balance his lionesque visage.
T ht length nnd spread of the coll ar points should compl ement the head's contour and size. Long straight- poinrcolbrs. Long- necked men require taller colla. Vol r: Kial structure by ejrher sorrcning dominant or strengt hening its We;Jk ones. T hroughout 1 s ;: Dress shj rt colbrs were. Fueled by an I tal ian reviYal of classical clcg:: Volfe's t: As t he most stylisticall ,. The narrow opening between irs points favors a rou. Here is rt man who chose to ti tle his autobi - ography Lr Tt.
Adolphe vvas also one of its lead. Its long:: L become mosf implll't: II model. Ihnt wilJ llanc. Ke '-otice ho" the. FabJO Borelli. L'mplorcd l11ghcr-sirring 'Pf ;'. Tt rhc conrr: HL' acror. Kccptancc b rhc beau monde as" nh it-.
Ib coll. JI mc. L - T I j I 'rllr. Jr cll llnr pinned. It" nuld be surprising to flud unc.: The puitll '' t: The mo"t common app. Kcou tremenr wa' m a quire one dccrm11c.. RAJt l ftt: J necktie thl hutwn.. I ike Llll' blue bi. Bnrbtras sldglu.. Agm1li 6-r.
BA"llSTE 1. U'il hnlf inch to the collar r Hl'cr ho'' the wc. If tlw hand can t-1i de: EEVE l. Sl rltcn pa Jl. HL' dub a i I i,n inn. Jft t,fbL"spt'lkL' A Feb 06, Terry Heller rated it really liked it This is considered to be one of the must-read books about men's style, and I believe that reputation is deserved. The book is organized into sections such as proportions cut and tailoring , color, patterns, and footwear, and each section is illustrated with examples that reinforce his point -- the lapels on this man are too wide, on this one too narrow, on this one just right.
I particularly enjoyed the section on color and coloring; finding out which clothes work best for a "high-contrast" com This is considered to be one of the must-read books about men's style, and I believe that reputation is deserved.
I particularly enjoyed the section on color and coloring; finding out which clothes work best for a "high-contrast" complexion such as my own is a good thing to know. The book also has dozens of old photographs of style icons such as the Duke of Windsor, Cary Grant, Gary Cooper, and Fred Astaire in beautiful clothes. I think that Flusser's taste in clothes is a little "dandier" than mine. He has been hired to be a wardrobe consultant for films about rich guys like Wall Street , and some of his recommendations would work better for Gordon Gekko than they do for your rank-and-file government lawyer.
He suggests a lot of bright colors and certain cuts which, in my opinion, most men would not feel comfortable wearing to a typical office job or cocktail party.
I realize that part of his point is that men should branch out and be less conservative as long as it is done tastefully , but I do not think I will wear many yellow shirts under my suits, even if it flatters my complexion. Part of his color palette may be due to the time in which this book was written; it is already 11 years old, and some colors are less common now than they were in the late 90's.
Also, parts of this book are over-written. It may just be that Flusser grew tired of repeating the same dozen or so style-related words, but he hits the thesaurus waaaay too hard, and uses alliteration at least as heavily as Tom Wolfe.
It doesn't prevent him from effectively making his point, but it does make the book somewhat more difficult to read. I would recommend this book as a reference. It is probably not essential to own a copy, but I will probably continue to check it out of the library from time to time to refresh my memory and, perhaps, to draw inspiration from those vintage photographs of Cary Grant.I i nen. Side pockets line up with the bottom bttttoH on the coat'sji-ont.
Part of his color palette may be due to the time in which this book was written; it is already 11 years old, and some colors are less common now than they were in the late 90's.
U nfortu- nately. Han nels or jeans. Ronald Colema11 in early lounge coat formality. Uld Oil '1? Cultural Studies in Fashion.